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How to make noodles: the art and science of manipulating gluten

It's easy and fun to make hand-pulled noodles, especially if you understand how gluten is acting inside the dough to make it stretch y and elastic, says Sam Wong

By Sam Wong

18 March 2020

Âé¶¹´«Ã½. Science news and long reads from expert journalists, covering developments in science, technology, health and the environment on the website and the magazine.

Simon Reddy/Alamy

What you need

Flour
Salt
Vegetable oil
Garlic
Spring onions
Sichuan pepper
Chilli flakes
Soy sauce
Chinese black vinegar

MAKING noodles by hand is an art, practised most spectacularly by chefs in China who pull, twist and stretch a single piece of dough into hundreds of strands as diners watch. It takes years to master this, but some types of noodle are pretty easy and fun to make at home. One is biang biang noodles, which originated in Shaanxi province in central China.

Hand-pulled noodles are testament to the stretchy and springy properties of gluten, a mix of two groups…

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